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Upholstery Cleaning
What upholstery cleaning process you use is determined by the results of your inspection and pretesting. The correct method directly relates to the type of cleaning agent that can be safely used on the piece, as well as the type of equipment that should be used. Listed below are the various processes, and the reasons why they should be used. Remember, always vacuum the fabric first to remove as much dirt and debris as possible. Vacuuming makes the cleaning job easier and faster. Also consider that the faster the fabric dries, the less likely dyes will bleed or migrate. When choosing the process that will best clean the piece, it is important to remember that too much can be TOO MUCH. Not testing the fabric, not inspecting, and overcleaning (over wetting, over agitating, over rinsing, excessive dry times) is a guarantee that you can experience problems with most fabrics leading to disastrous results.
Towel Process
Mist your cleaning agent onto soft white towels or natural sponges (non-dyed) and gently wipe the fabric in the warp (lengthwise) direction , turning the towel to a clean face with every stroke. Use uniform strokes, and move across the weft (widthwise) direction of the fabric with each stroke. Repeat this process until you no longer have soil transfer from the fabric to the towel or sponge. If the fabric has no adverse reactions to a neutral pH prespray, it may be lightly sprayed directly onto the fabric then any excess moisture left and allowed to dry. Hand misting onto a towel provides the least amount of moisture to be placed on the fabric, and the fastest dry time. Towel cleaning a fabric is a procedure one step above dry vacuuming and solvent cleaning in cleaning effectiveness.
When To Use: Towel process cleaning is used on very delicate weaves or weaves where long floats are present. Hand processes use very little moisture, and are recommended where possible wicking of latex backings can occur. It is also recommended when the fabric has the affinity to water mark or brown, or when the fabric covers another fabric or material that could wick color, and when upholsterer's marks are found during inspection. This method may also be the only method you can use when it is determined that the stains from the wood frame easily bleed into the fabric, or dye bleeding / migration is a concern.
Dry Foam
For shampoo cleaning only. The shampoo is turned into a foam using a shampoo foamer or a bucket and horse hair brush. Only the foam is used in the cleaning process. The foam is picked up onto clean white towels or natural sponges and is wiped over the fabric in warp direction. This process uses slightly higher moisture than a towel process and takes a little longer to dry.
When To Use: For the same reasons as the towel process, but where it is found that a shampoo is safe to clean the fabric. This method allows for higher productivity, and is especially effective on fine weave Haitian Cottons or coarser weave fabrics that have a soluble latex backing (stabilizer).
Light Mist Process
Using a spray bottle, lightly mist the fabric holding the bottle 12" to 14" away from the fabric. Towel off all moisture using the same methods as described in the Hand Process. Light agitation may be used with some fabrics. This method applies more moisture to the fabric, increasing dry time and cleaning effectiveness.
When To Use: Use this method for the same reasons you would in the above processes, but where the amount of moisture used is not as critical.
Dry Brush - Wet Shampoo
Using a soft bristle brush and a bucket, the brush is placed in the bucket to pick up the cleaning agent. You then knock the brush on the side of the bucket to remove as much moisture as possible and apply the "dry" brush to the fabric, agitating in the warp direction. After agitation, the fabric may be toweled or wet vacuumed off.
When To Use: This process is used where there is a concern about the amount of moisture being used, but where agitation is a must to clean the fabric properly. Jacquard weaves or coarsely woven fabrics require agitation, but may not be able to withstand high moisture cleaning. CAUTION: agitation must be used with a "soft touch" so as not to abrade the fabric or floats. DO NOT SCRUB FABRICS.
Machine Mist and Vacuum
This process involves holding the upholstery tool 6-8 inches from the fabric, misting the cleaning solution on with the tool, and then applying the tool directly to the fabric with moderate lifting pressure to vacuum off the fabric. Higher moisture and longer dry times are involved as well as greater productivity.
When To Use: This process "wets" down the fabric more than the three previously described towel processes and is designed for fabrics that can accept higher moisture, but no agitation.
Direct Extraction by Machine
Placing the hand tool lightly onto the fabric, draw the tool in the warp direction overlapping each stroke. As you draw the tool gently lift the tool so that the fabric is lifted off of the cushion but vacuum is not broken.
When To Use: This process is the fastest and can be used on all durable tight weave fabrics where cleaning agent penetration will not affect any backing or under covering. This method provides the greatest amount of suspended soil removal, along with the greatest wetting effect.
Removal of Coffee & Other Tannin Stains
If everyone drank their coffee black, at room temperature, and it was the caffeinated type, coffee spots would not be the problem that they are. The problems are compounded by the cream and sugar that commonly goes down with the coffee, as well as the temperature at which it is spilled. Things really got tough with the increasing popularity of decaffeinated coffee. Many of the decaf coffees contain a synthetic, food grade dye which is much more difficult to remove than a tannin stain ever was.
When attacking these or other tannin stains, we commonly rely on our "tannin spotters". The tannin in coffee, tea, and cola is actually tannic acid. This is a naturally browning substance derived from vegetable matter. The tannin spotter on the other hand, is actually a reducing agent and/or a combination product designed to reduce or remove entirely the stain from the textile surface.
A primary advantage of the powders is freshness. The liquids, when mixed together, have a shelf life, and begin to lose strength over time. With the powder, you can make a fresh batch of as much or as little as needed. Another basic advantage of a powdered reducing agent is that you can make the product more or less effective by using various temperatures of water when mixing (optimum efficiency is achieved when using hot water).
One of the most prevalent complaints regarding coffee spots are the reappearing spots. They can be so frustrating because they may be easily cleaned away, but will persistently come back. They will usually reappear in one of two ways, which will indicate the reason for its return as well as dictate the procedure for permanent removal.
One type of reappearing spot is the one that goes away with cleaning, but gradually reappears as the carpet dries until it has completely returned by the next day. These can be extremely frustrating because the natural tendency is to clean the area deeper, and more aggressively. This deeper penetration of the cleaning agent actually solubilizes the latent reservoir of the spilled substance, and allows for its return via capillary action (wicking).
The most thorough method for addressing this latent culprit is to drain the reservoir by forcing the capillary action. We accomplish this task by solubilizing, thus reactivating, the reservoir. It is usually best to incorporate enzymes for this task because they are more effective in solubilizing the cream and sugar. Once solubilized, we are ready to force the reservoir to migrate to a poultice of absorbent compound. Chemspec's ABSORB-A-SPILL will absorb up to 75 percent of its weight in liquid. Once the reservoir has been emptied, we can aggressively attack the visible coffee stain without fear of wicking.
The other type of reappearing spot is the one that usually cleans up very easily but comes back in the exact same shape and in the exact same area. These spots do not reappear immediately upon drying, but take some time. They could show up as quickly as a day or two, but usually take from a couple of weeks to a month or so. The culprit here is an invisible residue that attracts soil. The amount of time required for the reappearance is dependent on the amount of residue and relative tackiness of the spot, as well as the amount of soil being brought in by foot traffic. These are probably the most persistent of all reappearing spots, because the soil is so easily removed from the residue that the spot seems to disappear with even the mildest cleaning. The culprit residue, on the other hand, is usually very stubborn. The problem is compounded by the fact that you cannot see the spot until it is too late and the soil is reattached.
We usually start by forcing the wick with ABSORB-A-SPILL in case there is a reservoir of this invisible substance. This is followed by an aggressive co-solvent or enzyme pre-treatment (dependent upon whether the oil is protein or petroleum based), and then extract with a hot detergent flush. Regardless of the surface size or the depth of the coffee spot, the visible tannin stain is best treated with a reducing product such as SPRAY 'N GO. The name says it all- just spray and the coffee stains go. What could be easier?
Another approach to the tannin stain is with HELPMATE COFFEE STAIN REMOVER. This patented product is GUARANTEED to work on stubborn coffee and other tannin spots. Simply mix equal parts of the 2 products together in the accompanying mixing bottle, spray it on, and walk away. It is that simple.
Since the human race first settled back on two legs, our major concern, in one way or another, has been to control the forces of nature. Fires still rage and hurricanes howl, but one natural phenomenon can be successfully controlled: static shock.
With the computer era among us, the carpet industry is now concerned with static control, not only to promote personal comfort, but also to keep delicate equipment performing well.
Static is created every time two dissimilar materials are rubbed together, then separated. One object will tend to give up electrons to the other, which will tend to accumulate them. This rapid, violent exchange of electrons between two objects, or between an object and a human being, produces static shock.
As it relates to the carpet industry, there are three basic methods of static control in carpet: conductive wire, conductive fiber, and surface treatments.
Conductive Wire: This method reduces static effectively, but is seldom used because most of these wires are not resilient. They eventually become buried in the base of the pile, and are no longer effective.
Conductive Fibers: This method carries the burden of static control in carpet today. Most of the major fiber producers manufacture their own static control fibers by patented processes. Each relies on the natural ability of carbon to conduct static, and dissipate it or leak it to the ground.
Surface Treatments: This is the method that we are primarily concerned with. What must be understood first of all is the conditions which create static electricity: Relative humidity below 30% and a non conductive carpet fiber.
Under normal circumstances, nylon, followed by wool, are the most likely fibers subject to static electricity. The greater the soil condition in a carpet, the more the conductivity is reduced. This allows static electricity to build up and search for a conductive outlet. A person wearing leather soled shoes or other conductive footwear offers the perfect outlet. The electricity travels through our body (a very good conductor), and releases into the first conductive surface that we touch, such as a door knob.
Generally, the "static season" starts in October and continues through March. It goes hand in hand with lower temperatures and lower humidity in the air. However, with modern buildings containing "climate control systems" and expensive air conditioning, static electricity in carpeting can be a year round problem. In buildings containing computer systems and other sophisticated electronic equipment, the problem becomes more acute. Some computers will "react" to a static charge as low as 500 volts.
This situation has created a demand for treating areas with anti-static materials. The burden of solving the problem has fallen to the Professional Carpet Cleaner, with the result that this has become a profitable source of income to him.
Generally, the materials offered to the Professional Carpet Cleaner are sprays made from cationic materials which have a + charge that allow static electricity to flow and dissipate itself throughout the fibers of the carpet. These are very effective materials except for one disturbing point: They have a tendency to dry to a sticky residue or to a soft, waxy solid,which causes a great deal of resoiling. The quicker the anti-static material causes resoiling, the less effective it becomes. Therefore, these sprays have short life spans.
CHEMSPEC has solved this problem by incorporating a colloidal metallic compound with a cationic (+) charge into our SOIL RETARDANT ANTI-STATIC SPRAY. This material attaches itself to the fiber and not only imparts anti-static properties, but also soil retardant characteristics. THIS ALLOWS THE ANTI STATIC PROPERTIES TO LAST LONGER THAN EVER THOUGHT POSSIBLE.
There is an easy test you can do to check for static build up. Blow up a balloon, rub it back and forth on the carpet, and then put it on the wall. If the balloon sticks to the wall, then a static situation exists on the carpet and treatment is necessary.
Life as a carpet cleaning technician would be so much easier if we did not have to worry about recurring stains. This is a very common situation that happens and sometimes can present some frustrating experiences for the textile technician.
In order to properly deal with this situation, we first have to understand what makes up a recurring stain. Typically these stains are easily removed with industry standard cleaning practices, but will reappear either when the carpet dries (usually the morning after) or will start to come back several days after cleaning. The stain that usually takes longer to reappear typically comes back in a darker shade and is likely to get bigger as time goes along.
We also have to understand the different types of carpet fibers and how they affect the stain. The commercial carpet market is typically split 50 / 50 between nylon and polypropylene (olefin) These carpet fibers react differently with materials that are spilled on them.
If we were to take these two carpet samples, one nylon, one polypropylene and leave them in a room at normal temperatures with 30% relative humidity, the nylon sample will absorb .4% moisture while the polypropylene will absorb only .1%
While this may not seem like a big difference, lets examine what happens if we spill a cup of coffee on both types of carpets. We know that the coffee spot will fall not only on the visible part of the carpet, it will also go underneath the carpet. In the case of olefin, what we are really seeing is .1% of the stain, with the other 99.9% still underneath the carpet. When we clean the carpet (using any system that uses moisture), we will re-wet the stain and the dried coffee reservoir will now wick up to the top as the carpet dries. We have seen cases where you can clean carpet 15 or 20 times and the stain will still come back. This scenario will also happen with nylon carpet, however, it is the polypropylene one that seems to cause more of a problem.
The most frustrating part of all of this is that the spot itself cleans very easily and so your staff is justifiably proud of the job they do. So here are some tips that will make your job easier.
Recognize the fact that if the spot returns after one cleaning, it will probably come back again.
DON'T OVER WET! If you use extraction cleaning, spray a light mist over the spot and then extract. If the fibers get too wet then the moisture will go down to the bottom of the carpet and will re-wet the dried spot.
Consider bonnet cleaning the area. Spray a properly formulated bonnet solution over the affected area and bonnet clean using a low speed floor machine. While this will not remove all of the staining material it will keep it hidden underneath where we can't see it.
This is a very effective way to keep those stains from coming back
Clean and then absorb. Clean the spot and then use a non-soluble absorbent material (such as Chemspec Absorb A Spill) to absorb the remaining material out of the carpet. This same process can be repeated using weighted towels. (Put a heavy object over the towels to help absorb the staining material)
Take a spotting agent and continue spotting the spot until it does not return. This process may have to be repeated many times before the entire spot is removed.
If the stains reappear after several days you can repeat the same procedures, however, bear in mind that you are probably dealing with a different kind of stain. More than likely it is either an oily based or sugar based material. If it is an oily base material you may have to use a solvent based product to solubilize the material. (commonly referred to as a P.O.G.). If you do use this type of material, then it is imperative that you use a dry cleaning solvent to flush the P.O.G. out. These materials do not flush out with water. Typically if they are not flushed out properly, when they reappear they will usually be black in color. The reason that they come back like this is that they were never flushed out properly in the first place.
Proper Upholstery PreTesting Techniques
It is essential that you remember two things when you pretest:
PRETEST EVERYTHING on the fabric that you intend to clean, FACE and BACK!
ALWAYS use the same pretesting conditions that you use to clean. ie., If you use heat to clean, test with heat. If you use high moisture, test with high moisture.
Fabric cleaning is not difficult. Fabric cleaning is not a simple process either. It takes some skill and more knowledge than just the basics to successfully clean fabric. Many experienced fabric cleaners learn how to clean by making mistakes. There is nothing wrong with this method if you are willing to spend a lot of money to replace furniture, draperies, and wall coverings. But lets face it, the used fabric and furniture business is a poor business, and not the type of business you are in.
Learn the basics. Above all PRETEST everything before you clean it. Learn how to PRETEST properly and what to look for when you do PRETEST. Taking the time to PRETEST will show your customer that you are an expert, and not just another cleaner. PRETESTING will allow you the time to talk to your customer, and to sell your service at an above market price. Your actions will sell. Your demonstration of your knowledge will sell. Your customer will buy simply because you can talk, show, and do more than other cleaners can or do.
PRETESTING will not reduce your risk 100%. It will increase the jobs profitability and it will reduce your risk almost 100%.
One note: Everything changes in this industry; fabrics, fibers,dyes, soil, and the ability to clean. While learning how to clean fabrics, visit fabric shops, design stores, upholstery shops, and ask for scrap fabric or buy small swatches. Use these swatches to experiment on. Learn how certain cleaning agents react with different fabrics. Soil these swatches, and then clean them. It sounds like a lot of time and trouble, but the few dollars that you spend can save you hundreds or thousands of dollars on location if you make a mistake.
PRETESTING THE FABRIC
Pretesting involves following a thorough inspection of the piece to determine the proper cleaning agents and techniques to be used. It allows you to determine whether your cleaning agent will cause any problem with color bleeding, color loss, crocking, fading, browning, wicking, whitening, darkening, or color change.
HOW TO PRETEST
DRY CROCK TEST - Using a clean white dry towel, gently rub the fabric on all colors and check for dry crocking. If color transfer is evident, this is a vacuum only piece. Particular attention should be paid to the areas of the fabric that come into contact with the body, or direct sunlight. If no color transfer is apparent, proceed to Step #2
WET CROCK TEST - Lightly moisten a clean white towel with plain water. Gently rub all colors, and check for wet crocking. If color transfer is evident, this is a potential dry clean only piece. If no color transfer is apparent, dry test the area with a hair dryer at low heat setting, while keeping the dryer 12-14 inches from the fabric. When the test area is dry, check for color bleeding, color fading, color loss, shrinking, or stretching of fabric.
CLEANING AGENT TEST - In an inconspicuous area, use a Q-Tip moistened with the proposed diluted cleaning agent, and apply the agent to the fabric. Wait 30-60 seconds, and blot with a clean white towel. Check for color transfer (note: this must be done on all colors face and back of the fabric). If no transfer is noted, dry area with a hair dryer as described above.
Inconspicuous areas are those areas that are not easily seen by the customer, and if any damage occurs, it does not affect the appearance of the piece. Remember, pretest everything face and back, and to use the same conditions that you will use when you clean.
After drying, check for problems previously listed under the wet crock test. If no problems are observed, this cleaning agent is safe to use at its recommended dilution rate. If problems are observed, change to another cleaning agent.
OTHER PRETESTING TIPS
When the proper cleaning agent is determined, you must test all of those potential problem areas that were listed during your inspection of the piece (ie., upholsterers' marks, latex backing, batting, foreign fibers etc.).
If any color transfer is evident in any problem area, either isolate the problem area or refer to problem cleaning techniques. To isolate the area, cover the problem material with plastic so that your cleaning agent cannot penetrate to the problem.
Remember, you must pre-test any and all proposed cleaning agents, presprays and protectants before applying them to the piece.
Dry crock testing should be done on an exposed fabric face to determine if the piece is fume fading. Fume fading is not evident in inconspicuous areas. Fume fading is a releasing of the dye due to atmospheric gases and may not be apparent until a dry crock test has been performed.
Shrinking can be determined by placing two sewing pins one quarter on an inch apart through the fabric test area. After the test area has dried re-measure the pin distance. If it is not a quarter of an inch apart the process or agent must be changed to avoid shrinkage.
Any problems that are discovered when pretesting should be noted on your inspection report. Remember, Inspection and Pretesting is what separates the True Professional from the semi-professional cleaner. The True professional cleaner can use these two vital functions to justify the cost of the job as well as avoid many future problems.
Carpet Deodorization Made Easy
Dealing with odors and their elimination can be some of the most rewarding experiences, or some of the most frustrating and perplexing problems encountered by the on-location technician. It seems that when it comes to odors, everyone has their own opinion as to what is or is not pleasant. Odors are sensed by our olfactory system in the form of gases or vapors. Odors are not only comprised of gaseous vapors that are actually sensed by the olfactory system, but ar also influenced by how we think and feel about certain odors. Therefore, odors can be thought of as having two components, real odor and psychological odor.
Odors can also be influenced by outside factors such as heat, moisture, light, and air movement. Heat will accelerate the production of biological odors such as mildew, as well as the penetration of smoke odors into surfaces. Moisture or high humidity can also accelerate the production of mildew, and can re-activate dormant odors. Certain biological odors cannot exist in the presence of ultraviolet light, but will thrive in the presence of fluorescent or white light. Increased air movement can be responsible for the spread of odors over large areas. Therefore, the treatment of odors is often not confined to the area of the original source.
The control of odor is done by two processes: Removing the source and treatment of the contaminated area. First and foremost is the necessity of removing the source. It is simply impossible to deodorize a pile of garbage. Failure to remove the source of an odor can make the rest of our efforts futile. A thorough cleaning in an important step in eliminating the source of odors. In many instances, thorough cleaning is all that may be necessary to effectively eliminate an odor problem. The treatment of the odor and the contaminated area may be accomplished by using one of the following methods:
Masking Agents: These general deodorizers cover up an offensive odor with a more pleasant one. They are comprised mainly of perfumes and essential oils, and are safe for use on stain resist carpet.
Odor Absorbents: These agents will work by absorbing odor molecules. Powdered carpet deodorizers are mainly comprised of an absorbent media and a fragrance or masking agent.
Pairing Agents: Pairing agents are best described as agents used to wash the air. As pairing agents are sprayed into the air, they combine with odor molecules and fall to the ground. The odor has not been eliminated, but controlled.
Disinfectants: Disinfectants are used to kill or destroy bacteria and micro-organisms. In general, the term "stat" refers to the ability to control, and "cide" means to kill. Therefore, the term bacteristat refers to the ability to control the growth of bacteria, whereas bactericide refers to the ability to kill bacteria.
Ultraviolet light: This method is commonly used to sanitize bedding materials.
Phenolic Disinfectants: These are very strong chemicals that can cause damage to dyes in carpeting and eyes. They should only be used as a last resort.
Quats: Quaternary Ammonium Chloride compounds are the most common, suitable, and safest type of disinfectant utilized in our industry. Quats usually contain a masking agent, and they must actually make contact with the organism to effectively kill it. They are cationic in nature and should not be mixed with anionic detergents.
Enzymes: Enzymes are living organisms that work by breaking down or digesting insoluble protein complexes into simpler substances or gases that can be rinsed or will evaporate. Many contain fragrances and are usually mixed with water in the 100 - 140 degrees C temperature.
Antimicrobial: Antimicrobials are biostats that control the growth of a wide range of micro-organisms by interfering with the reproductive cycle. They should be used for treatment of areas that are prone to repeated exposure to biological odor problems, such as bathrooms, locker rooms, and food service areas.
Ozone: Ozone destroys odor molecules by oxidation. This causes a permanent change to the odor causing molecule. It is very effective in the elimination of smoke odors and is relatively safe to use in normal concentrations.
Solvent Based Deodorizers: These solvent soluble deodorizers and fragrances are capable of chemically neutralizing many odors. They can be included in dry cleaning procedures and on non water safe fabrics. They are also used in thermofogging products.
The most important aspect of the pre-cleaning inspection with regard to malodors is the pre-qualification of the customer. Pre-qualification is the process of developing a clear understanding with the customer to establish realistic expectations. When performing the inspection, document all pre-existing conditions such as spots, stains and excessive wear. Also, look for signs of pet or water damage, food spills or any other type of contamination.
Deodorization Techniques
Remember, the first priority is to choose the right cleaning chemistry that is safe, that will not jeopardize the carpet warranty, and that promotes a healthy environment.
In routine cleaning, mild odors resulting from soiling and spillage can be controlled with a general contact deodorizer. Basic deodorization can be accomplished by spraying the solution on the carpet prior to cleaning.
When you encounter contamination such as cat urine or other severe malodors, choose a specialized treatment. These sites are usually accompanied by visible staining, physical deterioration of the textile's dyes, and potential for resulting health problems. As professionals, we must get to the source and either remove, modify or neutralize the odor causing conditions.
In dealing with cat urine, it is critical to first determine the location of the contamination. An ultra-violet (black light) lamp or a moisture detector will help to best accomplish this task. Next, saturate each contaminated area. Once the specific areas have been treated, the remainder of the carpet should be sprayed using a general deodorizer, and finally hot water extract the carpet.
It is important to remember:
Special circumstances and extremely severe odor problems may require a more sophisticated approach and should be left to experienced restoration technicians.
Not all deodorizers are alike. Some are only effective on certain specific odors. Also, some are designed to be applied prior to cleaning, while others should be applied after cleaning.
There are many different methods of cleaning carpets, each system having both advantages and disadvantages. All of today's viable carpet cleaning systems have been designed to handle some general or specific cleaning problems. As professionals, we must understand the pros and cons of determining the best approach to the many situations we will encounter in the field. It is not hard to understand that the needs of a large institutional facility, with a limited and relatively untrained cleaning staff, will differ from a restoration contractor that is involved in very complex and highly technical problems. Another important point to consider is that no carpet cleaning method is capable of cleaning a carpet by itself. There must be an operator. The skill level of the operator is just as important to the outcome of a job as the method used, if not more so. With this in mind, lets take an unbiased look at all of today's viable carpet cleaning methods.
Dry Soil Removal
Vacuuming and Pile Lifting: Vacuuming is probably the most commonly overlooked fundamental in all cleaning methods today, and certainly the most important step. With some 79% of all carpet soil able to be removed with vacuuming alone, it seems strange that so little attention is given to this important area.
Vacuuming should be accomplished with a good quality commercial vacuum cleaner or commercial pile lifter. Pile lifters utilize two separate heavy duty motors. One motor drives the large cylindrical brush for superior agitation and pile grooming, while another vacuum motor is used for providing proper air flow. A trap is mounted to capture heavy objects such as paper clips.
A good example of the importance of dry vacuuming is a wet, sand laden swimsuit. While the swimsuit is wet, it is very difficult to shake our or remove the sand. Once the swimsuit has dried all that is required to remove the sand is just a few quick flicks. The dry sand is easily removed with very little effort.
Interim Cleaning
Absorbent Powder/Dry Extraction Cleaning: This is a cylindrical brush cleaner with two rotating brushes. This method uses a dry granular absorbent media, impregnated with solvent and detergent. It is evenly dispersed over the soiled carpet, and hand or machine brushed to allow absorption of the soil. It is allowed to dry for a short period and dry vacuumed. This method allows for cleaning without streaking or wick-back. However, the absorbent sponges leave a residue, and do not clean heavily soil areas very well.
Bonnet/Spin Pad Cleaning: This method is accomplished by prespraying a detergent/solvent solution over the carpet. Next, the carpet is buffed using an adsorption/absorption pad or bonnet attached to a floor machine. This is a relatively fast system that requires minimal operator skill. However, it is not recommended for heavy soil removal as it does not provide deep cleaning and has no rinsing action.
Rotary Shampoo: This method consist of a rotary floor machine equipped with solution tanks and shower feed brushes. After a thorough vacuuming, the carpet is scrubbed while a shampoo solution is fed through the shower feed brush. This system is relatively economical, and excellent agitation and deep cleaning produce good overall cleaning results. A high level of skill is involved, as overwetting and pile distortion can occur.
Dry Foam Shampoo: Dry foam carpet cleaning is a version of the shampoo method. The term "dry" is a relative term used to describe the low amount of liquid used (10% liquid, 90% air). It utilizes special equipment equipped with a foam generator that whips the shampoo liquid into a foam before it is applied to the carpet. Most dry foam equipment utilizes cylindrical or reel type brush systems for agitation. This method utilizes low amounts of moisture that results in fast drying times. Minimal operator skill is required, and it is a good method for commercial maintenance programs. Periodic hot water extraction and dry vacuuming is recommended after drying to reduce residue buildup.
Restorative Cleaning
Rotary/Shampoo Extraction: This system is similar to rotary shampoo, except that an attached wet vacuum extracts the suds and suspended soil as they are generated. This eliminates the need for separate extraction, and it speeds up the drying time. This one-step system requires less labor time, and has the fastest drying time of all the restorative cleaning processes. It is excellent for commercial carpet, however, certain carpet constructions should be evaluated for the appropriateness of rotary equipment due to its increased agitation.
Steam/Hot Water Extraction: This system consists of injecting a jet of hot water containing detergents, at a prescribed rate, onto/into the carpet. At the same time, the solution and soil is simultaneously extracted into a waste tank by a vacuum system. This system is the preferred method for the most efficient soil removal. Present state of the art equipment enables high rates of production and less residue, provided proper chemicals are used. This system does require a high level of operator skill, as overwetting problems can occur from poor operator technique, and faulty equipment.
The process of cleaning is relatively simple in that all textiles are cleaned using the same basic principals. First, any Dry Soil is Removed. Then they must be washed, rinsed and dried. This can also be called Soil Suspension (washed), Soil Extraction/Removal (rinsed), and Drying (dried). Each of these three occur in the cleaning process, but not always in the same sequence. Soil removal sometimes occurs after drying or both before and after drying.
STEP 1 - Dry Soil Removal
The most commonly overlooked step in all cleaning methods today, and certainly the most important step, is proper vacuuming. With some 79% of all carpet soil able to be removed with vacuuming alone, it seems strange that so little attention is given to this important area. Vacuuming should be accomplished with a good quality commercial vacuum cleaner or commercial pile lifter. Don't overlook "nap preparation" with groomers or brushes on longer piled or extremely matted carpets.
STEP 2 - Soil Suspension
This is probably the key principles in cleaning. It involves the separation of soil from the fibers so that it can be extracted and removed. This is where the major effort is applied by the technician, equipment, and chemicals. There are four fundamentals which determine how efficiently soil suspension occurs:
FUNDAMENTALS OF SOIL SUSPENSION
We have represent the Fundamentals of Soil Suspension as a "pie" with four equal slices, but in reality we will find that the size of each of the slices varies greatly from cleaning system to cleaning system as well as the size of the pie (cleaning efficiency) itself. Any time you decrease one of the Fundamentals, you must compensate by increasing another to keep the overall pie (cleaning efficiency) as large as possible.
TEMPERATURE: Some temperature is used in each system. The methods of achieving this depends upon the system. The chemistry handbook outlines the fact that every 18 degrees F increase in temperature above 118 degrees F will double the molecular activity, up to approximately 250 degrees. Simply stated, this means heat makes the molecules move faster and, therefore, clean more quickly. Generally, hotter is better, but caution should be observed and temperature lowered on true velvet plush, noncolorfast, and some 5th generation fibers.
AGITATION: The process by which the fiber being cleaned, and the cleaning solution are brought together and moved. This may be achieved by brush and elbow action, water pressure, oscillating or rotating brushes, or any other force that may be available as part of the cleaning.
CHEMICAL ACTION: The process by which the chemicals in the cleaning solution attack the soil particles and dissolve, emulsify or loosen them. This may involve agglomeration, saponification, emulsification, suspension, or other chemical reactions. In addition, some chemicals when mixed together work better than when used alone; this is called synergism.
TIME: The amount of seconds, minutes, or hours allowed for the above principles to interact for optimum efficiency. Often a period of time varying from seconds to minutes is necessary so that the chemical reactions can occur, releasing the soil prior to extraction.
STEP 3 - Soil Extraction (Removal)
The third major step is to remove the cleaning solution and suspended soil from the surface, leaving the fiber clean, fresh and residue free. Rinsing may occur before drying as in steam cleaning (which uses wet extraction) or spin pad (which uses adsorption), or it may occur after drying as with shampoo and dry powders which must be vacuumed for removal after they dry.
STEP 4 - Nap (Pile) Setting or Grooming
Carpets of wool or nylon take a "water set" just like your hair, and should always be groomed in the desired direction prior to drying. All carpets are subject to nap shading during cleaning; wand marks and swirls from rotary machines are examples. Unless specifically requested (such as in apartments by property managers) these marks should be removed by grooming.
STEP 5 - Drying
Fifth is the process of removing any water, solvent, or other liquid from the carpet fibers so they can return to their normal appearance and texture, while not attracting or holding additional soil. This should always occur in as short a period as possible to allow the use of the area as well as avoiding problems related to dampness, such as mildew, resoiling, odor, etc. The quickest drying can be accomplished with good air flow (fans and air movers), and ventilation (air exchange). While hot solutions will volatize and evaporate more quickly, merely turning up the heat without proper air flow and ventilation will create ideal growth environment for mildew (68 - 86 degrees F) and other organisms. In addition, any volatized solvents or organics should be ventilated or diluted to maintain the indoor air quality.
In treating spots and stains, the goal is to remove the foreign material without harming the fabric. The objective is to remove the material, or transform the material into a form in which it can be removed. You must first know the type of fiber on which the stain/spot exists and understand the characteristics of that fiber. Then you must know the type of spot or stain, and the characteristics of the cleaning chemical to be used.
Many spots are of unknown origin. In these cases, the sense of sight, touch, and smell are employed to identify the spot, or at least classify it into a category.
ASK - The easiest method is to simply ask your customer or the employees if they know the origin of the spot.
SIGHT - The shape of the spot gives an indication of its source and cause. A spot that is round, square, or geometric in design would not have come from a spill, but rather may have been transferred by contact from an object such as a round mahogany chair leg. An irregular shaped spot may indicate a spill. Spots in a line indicate dripping from a moving object. The thickness or depth of the substance on the fiber will help to determine the composition, and the amount of time required for removal.
The reflective brilliance and color can also help determine the composition. Hardened oil spots such as paint, varnish, lacquer, nail polish, etc., are usually shiny. A food spot is usually dull in appearance and will turn a lighter color where scratched. Spots that are lighter in shade than the original dye color may have dye loss.
The location of the spot in the area to be cleaned will add clues to its identity. Be aware of surrounding conditions that could give a clue as to the spot's category or origin. A spot in front of a soft drink machine has a good chance of being a beverage spill.
Spotting materials that are only on the upper portion of the yarns could indicate that a wicking action has occurred from a previous cleaning. Examine the base of the yarn and the yarn primary backing for similar discoloration.
TOUCH - Think of spots that you as a cleaner will encounter. Learn the textures of spots for future reference. What spills are tacky, waxy, hard, soft, oily, dry, wet, etc.
SMELL - The odor of the spot is sometimes the most efficient method of identification. The human nose is the best instrument for identifying odors. Your experience with different odors and the sensitivity of your nose will determine the individual accuracy of the odor identification
pH - When an unknown spot does not respond to dry solvent, it should be water FACTORsoluble. In this case, pH may be a factor.
SPOT & STAIN REMOVAL - GENERAL SPOTTING RULES
Sum up available information and plan attack.
Select proper chemical agents.
Test on small obscure portion of carpet or upholstery to determine effect on dyes and fibers.
Remove excessive, built up, or crusted material, if any, with bone spatula.
Apply chemical agent -- DO NOT OVERWET.
Blot -- Avoid harsh rubbing or rough brushing which can cause fuzzing.
Work from edge of spot toward center to avoid rings.
Allow sufficient time for chemical to work (2 - 5 minutes).
Remove excess chemical by blotting. Flush lightly with water. If another chemical is to be used, follow steps 5 thru 9.
REMEMBER: When using Steam/Hot Water Extraction methods, spot after cleaning. Pre-spot (before cleaning) when using all other cleaning methods.
Understanding Enzymes Used In Cleaning
The question that we are often asked is what is an enzyme and why should I consider using this type of detergent? While the technical definition of an enzyme is long and complicated, and enzyme can best be described as a "protein molecule that causes a chemical reaction between two substances". A good analogy is when we eat food our stomachs release enzymes to break the food down into small enough pieces so that they can be properly digested by our bodies.
So much of the soil found on carpet and upholstery is protein related. We get protein soil from cooking oils, spilled food and drink, and body oils. Typically, this type of soil is more difficult to remove because food spills tend to be detergent resistant. No matter which enzyme product a cleaner uses, the enzyme action goes to work by breaking down the molecular bond of the soil and allows the detergent to perform more efficiently.
Our enzymes are heat activated and the optimum working temperature is between 140o - 150o F (60 - 66oC). The translation to achieve this temperature is for your customer to use the hottest tap water that he/she can find.
In order to understand how urine treatment's work, we must first understand why and how we smell urine. Urine odor is comprised of a few basic odor elements that combine in different degrees to achieve the final, all too familiar, urine odor. The stale urine deposits emit molecules that are received, detected, and interpreted by the olfactory system in the body. All detectable odors are received the same way, but may be interpreted differently according to which area of the olfactory system they stimulate.
This system has the capability of being stimulated in seven areas which correspond to the seven primary odors. All odors that we smell and recognize are some combination of these seven odors.
Until recently, there were three main methods of combating urine odors: the use of Masking Agents, Quaternary Ammonium Chlorides, and Enzymes.
Masking Agents are general deodorizers that cover up the urine odor with a more pleasant odor. They are mainly comprised of perfumes and essential oils, and are not thought to last very long. Therefore, when the pleasant odor diminishes, you are again left with an old urine odor.
Enzymes are living organisms that work by breaking down or digesting the insoluble protein complexes of the urine, into simpler substances that can be rinsed or will evaporate. Although these work, they are incapable of breaking down all of the sugars and proteins of the urine. Masking agents are usually found in these products, which cover the remaining odor, but as discussed above, they dissipate quickly to leave a slight urine odor behind.
Quaternary Ammonium Chlorides or Quats are the most common treatment of odors. Quats kill the bacteria and fungus contained in stains that help to create the odor. They usually contain a masking agent, and they must actually make contact with the organism in order to effectively kill it. While quats are good for use on hard surfaces and general carpet deodorization, they have proven to be quite ineffective against urine odors in carpet.
Recently, a breakthrough was achieved, creating a whole new technology for the fight against urine odors. This new technology came in the form of the new Chemspec product, Urine Contamination Treatment (UCT). This product employs a whole new variety of techniques for controlling mal odors in carpet and hard surfaces. UCT gains access to the urine in such a way that the ingredients of the product can interact with the elements of the urine. Once access is gained, other active ingredients will combine with and control the deposits, and thus eliminate the odor emitted.
UCT contains a very small amount of wetting agent to allow the free flow to all affected areas such as the carpet backing and deep within the yarn bundle. Once inside, the acidic ingredients aid in the solubilization of the urea salts. These salt crystals are the fundamental structure of the urine deposit. These alkaline salts are most efficiently solubilized in acid containing solutions. Once the salt crystals are solubilized, we are half way to odor free carpet or upholstery.
Urine Contamination Treatment works by disrupting the vital combination of elements of the urine odor on its way to the olfactory system. First, some of the molecules forming the urine odor are completely eliminated by preventing them from ever being offgased (stopping at the source). Next, other crucial elements are chemically altered by combining other outside elements with them and thus changing their olfactory code. Once this code is altered, the olfactory system will interpret it differently, and hopefully more pleasantly.
Lastly, new odors are introduced. Only after the critical combination leading to urine odor is sufficiently disrupted, is it time to incorporate any masking agents. Even if the odor of urine is not detected, some odor will be detected as long as molecules are volatizing from the area and entering the nose. We further control the interpretation of these molecules by introducing key fragrances which stimulate specific areas of the olfactory system to specific degrees.
UCT should be applied liberally, allowed to dwell, and the area should be thoroughly hot water extracted. This rinsing action will physically remove much of the odor causing source. Inevitably, some of both the urine and the UCT will be left behind. We must also recognize that while a specific odor may originate from a specific source in a localized area, it has most likely offgased into the immediate environment and lodged itself into surrounding porous surfaces. The source of the odor has now expanded and must be addressed if one expects to completely control the odor. For this reason, it is recommended that in addition to localized treatment, a general deodorizer be used on surrounding carpet areas in the entire room.
As we can see, deodorization is a complex process involving chemistry, anatomy, psychology, and physics. If we employ a variety of chemistry to affect the interpretation of odors through elimination, modification, and new odor introduction, we have the best chances of permanent solution to mal odor.
Cleaning Upholstery With Confidence
As most professionals know, upholstery cleaning can be a very tricky business. Unless you have actually built the piece of upholstery yourself, it is difficult to know what materials are sitting behind that thin layer of fabric that you need to clean. Unlike most carpeting, that thin layer of fabric to be cleaned can be composed of a variety of combinations of fibres. Every type of fibre, from acrylic to wool, can be included in one single sofa. It is also very difficult and time consuming to identify every type of fibre in a piece of upholstery, and virtually impossible to clean each type of fibre in the piece using its recommended cleaning procedure. So, how do you clean a piece of upholstery safely and effectively?
PART I: Heavy Duty Soil Lifter
Heavy Duty Soil Lifter is a specially formulated upholstery prespray, designed to loosen stubborn dirt and oils. It has a neutral pH, which makes it safe for cleaning, and may be used with wet or dry cleaning methods.
PART II: NATURAL FIBRES - Powdered Haitian Cotton Upholstery Cleaner
Powdered Haitian Cotton (PHC) is a slightly acidic detergent for use in portable jet extraction upholstery cleaning equipment. It is specially formulated for natural raw seed fabrics, but is safe to use on all fibres. It reduces the occurrences of browning and water marking, and can be used by the rookie or veteran upholstery cleaner.
OR
PART II: SYNTHETIC FIBRES - Powdered Extraction Upholstery Cleaner
Powdered Extraction Upholstery Cleaner is designed specifically for heavily soiled synthetic fabric that has stable dyes. Its 100% active solution breaks down oily soils for easy removal. It is a very popular product in the commercial market for cleaning wall partitions, office furniture, stadium seating, and movie theatres.
PART III: All Fabric Stainshield
All Fabric Stainshield is a waterless fabric protector that provides maximum fabric protection against both water and oil based soils. It will not promote browning, bleeding, and dye run like water based sprays. It has a very fast dry time (15 - 30 minutes), and is safe to use on almost all fibres.
Using this three step system, the professional upholstery cleaner can confidently ensure their customers that the piece will be cleaned safely and effectively. This system can not only add value to your job, but it can also increase your company's profit.
NOTE: Always pre-inspect furniture, and pre-test before doing any cleaning. Excessive moisture, and long drying times can cause many problems. High pH, and heat can also cause problems.
To give us a better understanding of the cleaning methods we use and how they work, we first need to take a look at the problem of soil and its removal. Cleaning is not as simple matter since many variables are involved that will affect the end result. We can control some of the variables, others we can do little or nothing about. For maximum results, we need to utilize as many of the variables as we possibly can to assist us.
It is now recognized that carpets act as filters for the indoor environment, trapping soils, gasses, animal and human dander, and a host of other contaminants. Most actual soils are tracked in on peoples shoes, clothes, boxes, or in their hands. Others are generated as a by-product of some activity taking place such as grease from cooking, soot and dust from heating systems, and engine oil from the garage.
Soil can be described as any matter that is foreign to the basic construction of the carpet. It can further be described as being Real or Apparent. Real Soil, or actual soil is just that; a substance on the fibers that causes a change in appearance, feel, or smell. Examples are: sand, dirt, dog hair, food spills, oil, urine, and a never ending list of possibilities. The determining factor is that a foreign substance is present on or in the carpet, and its presence is causing some undesirable effect on the occupants or users of the area.
Regardless if the soil is real or apparent, the challenge we face is what, if anything, can we do to eliminate or lessen the negative effect.
REAL SOIL
It is estimated that 79% of all real soil that accumulates on carpets consists of sand and dry particulate matter. This type is often gritty and abrasive, and can contribute to the wearing of the carpet, and thus, produce a dull appearance. The remainder of the soil in carpets is composed of oils, greases, starches, etc. This type of soil is mostly acid by nature. For this reason, most carpet cleaning detergents are on the alkaline side of the pH scale. Alkaline cleaners neutralize this acid condition to enhance removal of the soil.
Cleaning residue in carpets is a major problem to the wearability and appearance of carpets, not to mention the carpet cleaner. Residue can cause rapid resoiling that will lower the appearance level of many carpets. The most difficult to remove soils are oils, tar, resin, and gum: those items that are sticky and tent to bond, cure or dry on the fiber. Those are the ones that require moisture, chemicals, and agitation to loosen and remove. Also frequently impossible, or difficult to remove are soils that are extremely small in size, or that contain dye or pigment that acts as a stain agent by actually sinking into the carpet fiber.
APPARENT SOIL
In addition to actual real soil, apparent soil can affect the appearance of a carpet. Apparent soil is not actually soil, but the appearance, feel, or smell that soil would cause if it were present. This can be such things as a shadow, pile distortion, light reflections, wear patterns, nap reversal, and scratches in the face fibers. The determining factor is that no soil is actually present to cause the change or condition, but it looks as if soil were present and causing the undesirable effect. Conditions which contribute to apparent soil include:
DARK AREAS OR TRAFFIC LANE GREY - The carpet appears to be soiled, but is actually clean. This is often due to a combination of factors such as scratches or fiber distortions due to wear, which will cause light to reflect at different angles instead of uniformly.
SHADING, WATER MARKS, POOLING & NAP REVERSAL - A condition in cut pile only where the pile lays in a different direction from the rest of the carpet, which causes light to reflect in such a way that the surface appears soiled or wet. Steam cleaning or pile lifting may temporarily improve the appearance, but it always comes back.
CORN ROWING - A condition in cut pile only where alternating rows of tufts bend over to fill in density voids in the carpet, thus creating a row like effect at right angles to the traffic patterns. Most noticeable at tips of fibers, they group together to form rows of varying widths, depending on the height and density of the yarns. According to carpet manufacturers, this is not a mill defect, but a characteristic of some cut pile carpets.
REFLECTIONS AND SHADOWS - These conditions are caused by reflections which make the carpet look light and dark due to un-obvious light sources. Examples would be: pin holes in draperies, light fixtures, shades and window coverings that allow concentrated light to focus on a specific area of carpet. Another source can be reflections of shiny objects such as mirrors, chrome, chair legs, and other items in a room or office. These can be identified by blocking the light source to the spot. Shadows cause a dark spot to appear, they can be eliminated by bringing in an alternate light source. The addition of an inspection light is invaluable at this point.
WEAR - Wear is a reduction in the amount of face fiber in traffic areas, especially as compared to non-traffic areas. To tire or exhaust, diminish by constant use, lose or cause to lose thickness or height by use, friction. A carpet fiber is said to have wear when there is an actual loss of face fiber.
Carpet Protectors: How They Work
Carpet protectors are products that are applied to fibers to give them added protection from stains and soils. There are two general categories of protectors used in our industry: Soil Retardants and Stain Repellents.
There is a lot of misunderstanding that exists both within our industry, by uneducated technician and by the consuming public, as to exactly what these products are designed to do. Hopefully, the following information will help you to gain a good understanding of carpet protectors, so that you can provide your company with accurate information on the benefits of having them applied to carpet and fabrics.
SOIL RETARDANTS
Soil Retardants are designed to provide a fabric or carpet with an improved resistance to dry particulate soil. They are not to be confused with stain repellants, since soil retardants are not designed to provide any protection from water or oil based liquids.
Colloidal Silica: These products are often formulated from DuPont "Ludox". A colloidal silica based soil retardant can best be described as clean soil. When applied to new or freshly cleaned carpet or fabric, the fine colloidal silica particles fill the crevices, cracks, and irregularities of the fiber which are the hiding places for normal particulate soil. The extremely small glass beads allow the soil to easily slip off the fibers.
Fluorochemicals (Scotchguard & Teflon): These are the most common and popular class of soil retardants. They change the surface energy of the fiber and act like the non-stick coatings on cooking utensils. Soil, oil, and water all slip off the fiber. They can be either water or solvent based. These coatings were the basis for the fourth generation fibers.
Colloidal Metallic: These antistats have also been shown to have excellent soil retardant properties, whether by reducing the static attraction of soil or by acting in a similar manner to the Silicas, is unknown. The results however, are similar to Silicas at normal application rates.
Acrylic Copolymer: Primarily a water repellant, these coating exhibit mild soil retardant characteristics.
STAIN REPELLANTS
Stain repellants are designed to provide a fabric or carpet with increased protection from liquid type spills. There are three general categories of stain repellants in use today.
Silicones: Silicones were first used for the treatment of rain gear to restore water repellency after dry cleaning. Silicone fabric protectors soon became quite widely used for providing water based stain protection in a wide variety of fabrics. Although silicones do provide a good level of protection from water based spills, there are many drawbacks to their use.
Silicones provide no protection from dry particulate soil or oily type soils. Silicone products have been found to actually increase resoiling due to sticky residues that attract and hold dry soils. Major fiber producers and the Wool Bureau do not recommend the application of silicon-based products. Many also state in warranties that the use of silicone protectors will void manufacturers' warranties. Silicone protectors require solvent carriers in their formulations and should not be diluted.
Acrylic Copolymers: These products repel water-based stains and act as a marginal soil retardant.
Fluorochemicals: Fluorochemical based carpet and fabric protectors were introduced in the early 1970's. Fluorochemicals are the most durable of all of the protectors on the market today, and provide a high level of protection from water, oily, and dry soils. Fluorochemicals have also been found to offer some protection from static buildup. Fluorochemicals have an excellent resistance to detergents, and will withstand several steam extraction cleanings. Solvents will remove them, therefore, reapply after solvents.
When first introduced, fluorochemical protectors were only available in water based formulations and were only applied to carpets and wet cleanable fabrics. Water and solvent based formulations are now available for application to both wet and dry cleanable fabrics. There are two major producers of fluorochemicals, Dupont (Teflon), and 3M (Scotchgard). 3M company closely holds the brand name Scotchgard to protect trademark rights, while Dupont offers the Teflon product base, and the use of the Teflon brand name to many chemical formulators. It is common to see various trade names for products formulated with the Teflon resin.
Fluorochemicals work be decreasing the surface energy of a fiber surface. Liquids with higher surface energies, like water and oil, bead up and are repelled when they come in contact with the treated fibers. Virtually all of the mill applied or "built-in" protectors are fluorochemicals. This is a very good indication of how our industry leaders feel about the superior qualities of fluorochemical protectors.
Fluorochemical based fabric protectors are known for their durability, and effectiveness against water, oily, dry soils, and resistance to wet cleanings.
